From Lens to Langur: My Unforgettable Journey with Assam’s Golden Langurs

Hello fellow wildlife enthusiasts and birding fanatics!
Anirban here, just back from my latest adventure. On November 7, 2025, I found myself deep in Assam’s Kakoijana Reserve Forest near Bongaigaon. This wasn’t just another birding trip; it was a quest, a vivid encounter with the rare and captivating Golden Langurs of Kakoijana. Buckle up, because I’m about to share the raw, sometimes messy, and utterly exhilarating details of my journey – from homestay mishaps to intimate moments with these golden primates.

Unveiling the Golden Langurs of Kakoijana

The Golden Langur, Trachypithecus geei, is a living jewel of Assam’s biodiversity, endemic to a small region of western Assam and Bhutan. These magnificent creatures are easily identified by their stunning golden-yellow to creamy-white fur and striking black, hairless faces. Kakoijana proudly declares itself “The Home of Golden Langurs.” A fascinating local behavior I learned: they’ve developed a curious fascination with mirrors, sometimes entering unoccupied homes just to gaze at their reflections!

My Arrival: Homestay Charms and Learning Curves

My adventure kicked off with a scenic 3.5-hour cab ride from Guwahati to Bongaigaon. My government-subsidized homestay (~₹1500/night) was a serene, red-roofed house behind a manicured lawn. My spacious room was clean, though the absence of a geyser and WiFi reminded me to disconnect. Crucially, Kakoijana Reserve Forest was a mere stone’s throw away.

The homestay buzzed with life: bell-clad cows, peaceful geese, and chickens. I even spotted a Common Kingfisher by the pond! A travel agent’s budget f**k-up meant my costs spiraled, a valuable lesson: always double-check calculations and consider local guides. And yes, sharing my room with a mouse and then a cat certainly added to the “close to nature” experience!

Into the Green Heart: Kakoijana’s Diverse Wildlife

My initial exploration of Kakoijana Reserve Forest was invigorating. The forest was remarkably clean, a testament to excellent local stewardship. I learned about an intriguing canopy bridge built for the Golden Langurs, though rarely used.

While the langurs remained elusive initially, the forest hummed with avian wonders. I observed White-breasted Kingfishers, Black-rumped Shamas, Emerald Doves, and Spotted Owlets. The striking Greater Racket-tailed Drongos were also a highlight. Beyond birds, the forest showcased at least five types of butterflies and various lizards, a vibrant tapestry of life.

The Quest for Golden Langurs: Challenges, Poop, and Pure Joy

The next day, a 7:30 am start felt late, knowing langurs are most active until 9 am. But we pressed on, trekking through sunlit forest clearings and encountering friendly elephants. Our journey involved a steep, rocky hike up a densely vegetated hill – no internet, just pure immersion.

Despite efforts, the langurs remained hidden. A rest by a rocky stream soaked my shoes, and a clumsy descent resulted in three falls and a sprained ankle – a stark reminder of nature’s unpredictable challenges. Yet, my determination to capture the Golden Langurs of Kakoijana never wavered.

Then, at 12:12 pm, pure magic! A family of Golden Langurs emerged. Observing an adult female with her infant was a truly special moment. My local guide, Haro Mohan Rabha, was indispensable. A Rabha clansman with deep knowledge, he’s worked with langurs for years, even contributing to a National Geographic documentary. His insights were invaluable. My excitement led me to get incredibly close, and in a memorable (and messy!) moment, one langur decided to “bless” my camera lens with fresh poop! A wildlife photographer’s badge of honor, perhaps. Despite the brown smear, I captured exceptional footage, including an alpha male on my final day.

Tips for Your Own Golden Langur Expedition in Kakoijana

Planning a trip to see the Golden Langurs of Kakoijana? Here are my top insights:

• Hire a Local Guide: Haro Mohan Rabha was exceptional. Hiring locally saves on travel agent fees.
• Budget Scrutiny: Always double-check travel agent calculations. My budget ballooned.
• Connectivity: Be prepared for limited internet. Embrace the digital detox!
• Patience and Respect: Wildlife spotting demands patience. Maintain respectful distances.

Conservation and Community: A Shared Future for Kakoijana’s Golden Langurs

My final day involved reflection and engagement with villagers, learning about their conservation efforts. The community’s relationship with the Golden Langurs of Kakoijana is largely harmonious; locals trust them, finding amusement in their presence. They don’t raid crops, preferring young bamboo shoots. However, a somber reality: five langur deaths in recent years, three due to electrocution. Bikash, a local, highlighted the urgent need for greater awareness. While the canopy bridge is used, more proactive measures are vital to mitigate these preventable tragedies and secure their future. Witnessing local children utterly captivated by the langurs reinforced this deep, shared bond.

Final Thoughts & Call to Adventure
My journey concluded with plans for an early flight, but the memories of Kakoijana, its vibrant ecosystem, and its extraordinary Golden Langurs of Kakoijana will last a lifetime. This trip was a powerful reminder of the delicate balance between humans and nature.

Have you had a similar wildlife encounter? What are your tips for responsible wildlife tourism? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below! Don’t forget to explore my other posts on birding locations and perhaps start planning your own trip to Kakoijana.